Tag Archives: TEXTILE

Zero Formaldehyde operation

Formaldehyde is contained in many products that we use daily but what is it and what are the risks we take when we come in contact with it?

 

 

La formaldeide, o aldeide formica, a pressione e temperatura ordinaria è un gas incolore, dall'odore pungente. Molto nota a livello industriale è anche la soluzione della formaldeide in acqua, composto che prende il nome di formalina e che viene impiegato come disinfettante industriale, come conservante nei laboratori medici ma anche in campo alimentare.
La formaldeide, la cui molecola fu scoperta a metà del 1800 da un chimico tedesco, ha la proprietà di uccidere batteri, funghi e virus, perciò viene largamente impiegata come disinfettante e conservante in moltissime produzioni industriali: mobili, vernici, truciolati, colle, detersivi, materiali isolanti e anche nel settore tessile.

Essendo un gas, viene rilasciato nell’aria, provocando irritazioni e bruciori a occhi, naso e gola, ma anche cefalee, stanchezza e malessere generale.  Oltre a questo, provoca dermatite per contatto, attacchi di asma, tosse, stanchezza, sonnolenza, emicrania, nausea e vertigini.
Ovviamente la gravità dei sintomi cresce con l’aumentare della sua concentrazione nell’aria e anche molto in base alla salute degli esposti, alla loro età e alla loro suscettibilità alla sostanza.  

L’Agenzia Internazionale per la ricerca sul cancro, l’AIRC, l’ha inserita sin dal 2004 nell’elenco delle sostanze considerate cancerogene per la specie umana: l’esposizione a quantità consistenti di formaldeide è infatti potenzialmente letale.
Viene spontaneo pensare sia dunque bandita dal mercato ma purtroppo non è così. La normativa ne impedisce l’utilizzo in larga scala permettendone l’impiego in bassi dosaggi non azzerando così il pericolo per la salute.

Nel settore tessile viene utilizzata in resine chiamate “antipiega” usate per migliorare la stabilità dimensionale dei manufatti. Tali sostanze vengono introdotte nelle fasi di finissaggio di tessuti cotonieri  con lo scopo di ottenere effetti di stabilità e mano resi indispensabili dalle aspettative del mercato, rimanendo, come detto, altamente nocive per l’uomo e l’ambiente.

Dalla fine degli anni '80 hanno acquisito maggiore importanza le informazioni riguardanti la presenza di sostanze chimiche pericolose nei materiali tessili e con loro è cresciuto anche il livello di allarme tra i media e le associazioni dei consumetori.
A causa di ciò, numerosi Paesi Europei hanno iniziato a studiare le problematiche legate a questo fenomeno e contemporaneamente sono nati diversi marchi ecologici che basano i loro prodotti tessili sulla eco-compatibilità dei processi e sulla non tossicità per gli utilizzatori finali. Proprio come l'Opificio che, essendo un'azienza al 100%  formaldehyde free  , dimostra che i tessuti possono essere di altissima qualità ed estetica ed essere prodotti nel rispetto dell’uomo e dell’ambiente. I tessuti l’Opificio non contengono formaldeide né altri tipi di sostanze nocive.

FederlegnoArredo , dall'aprile 2015 è diventata partner del progetto di ricerca Eco-Presswood che ha preso il via nel marzo 2014. Tale progetto, coordinato dai centri di ricerca INSPIRALIA e CETEM, punta a sviluppare un nuovo tipo di resina termoindurente priva di formaldeide. Cosa che assicura numerosi benefici ambientali ed economici per le aziende e i lavoratori. Inoltre, in questo modo, le imprese possono accedere più facilmente a mercati in cui vigono restrizioni severe, quali Canada, Giappone e USA.

L’ EPA (Environment Protection Agency), infatti, ha definito, a partire dal 1° giugno 2018, l’entrata in vigore negli Stati Uniti d’America del regolamento relativo all’emissione di formaldeide dai prodotti compositi di legno (Formaldehyde Emission Standards for Composite Wood Products Rule) adottando i limiti di emissione di formaldeide fissati dal CARB (California Air Resources Board).
Questa norma impone a produttori, importatori, distributori e trasformatori di prodotti compositi di legno il rispetto dei limiti di emissione di formaldeide.
I prodotti importati in America o i loro imballaggi dovranno poi essere etichettati come conformi al Titolo VI del TSCA  (Toxic Substances Control Act) riportando il nome del produttore, il numero di lotto e la dichiarazione che il prodotto è conforme alle normative.

Formaldehyde, at its ordinary pressure and temperature, is a colorless gas with a strong smell. The solution of formaldehyde in water, a compound named formalin which is used as an industrial disinfectant, as a preservative in medical laboratories but also in the food sector, is also very well known in the industrial world.
Formaldehyde, whose molecule was discovered in the mid 1800 by a german chemist, has the property of killing bacteria, fungi and viruses, therefore it is widely used as disinfectant and preservative in many industrial productions: furniture, paints, chipboards, glues, detergents, insulating materials and also in the textile sector.

Being a gas, it is released into the air, causing irritation and burning of the eyes, nose and throat, but also headaches, fatigue and general malaise. In addition to this, it causes dermatitis, asthma attacks, coughs, fatigue, drowsiness, migraine, nausea and dizziness.
Obviusly the import of the symptoms grows with the increase of its concentration in the air and also according to the healt of the people exposed, to their age and to their susceptibility to the substance.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer, AIRC; has included it since 2004 in the list of substances considered carcinogenic for the human species: exposure to substantial amounts of formaldehyde is, in fact, potentially lethal.
Therefore, It is spontaneous to think that it is banned from the market but unfortunately it is not. The legislation prevents its use on a large scale allowing its use in low doses, thus not eliminating the danger to health.

In the textile sector it is used in resins called “anti-crease” used to improve the dimensional stability of the products. These substances are introduced in the finishing phase of cotton fabrics in order to obtain stability and the surface feel effects that are essential for market expectations, remaining, as mentioned, highly harmful to man and the environment.

Since the end of the 1980s, information concerning the presence of dangerous chemical substances in textile materials has become more important and the level of alarm between the media and consumer associations has also increased with them.
Because of this, many European countries have begun to study the problems related to this phenomenon and at the same time several ecological brands were borned, which base their textile products on the eco-compatibility of the processes and on the non-toxicity for the final users. Just like l'Opificio which, being a 100% formaldehyde free company, demonstrates that the fabrics can be of the highest quality and aesthatics and be produced in respect of the human being and the environment. l'Opificio's fabrics contain no formaldehyde or other types of harmful substances.

FederlegnoArredo, since April 2015 became partner of the Eco-Presswood research project that started in March 2014. This project, coordinated by INSPIRALIA and CETEM research centers, aims to develop a new type of thermosetting resin without formaldehyde, This will guarantee numerous environmental and economic benefits for companies and workers. In addition, in this way, companies are easily able to access markets where there are severe restrictions such as canada, Japan and USA.

EPA (Environment Protection Agency), in facts, has defined, starting from 1 June 2018, that the regulation about the emission of formaldehyde from wood composite products (Formaldehyde Emission Standards for Composite Wood Product Rule) take effect in United States of America adopting the formaldeyde emission limits set by CARB (California Air Resources Board).
This regulation impose on producers, importers, distributors and transformers of composite wood products the compliance with formaldehyde emission limits.
Products imported into America or their packaging will then have to be labeled as conforming to the TSCA Title VI (Toxic Substances Control Act) with the name of the manufacturer, the lot's number and the declaration that the product complies with the regulations.

Often in Italy there are no clear indications from the competent authorities on how to act. To solve this problem, in November 2016, Lombardy Region published an operative proposal for the management of formaldehyde risk in a company. This document provides useful informations that may represent a point of reference also for non Lombard companies.

This matter is also discussed at the European Commission that is proposing to limit the exposition to carcinogenic, mutagenic and toxic substances for the reproduction (CMR) subduing the entrance on the market of some products that contains them, under the Restriction Procedure.

When the application of this potential restriction will be en force, all garments and relative accessories, the textile products different from garments that, when used in a reasonable matter, will be on contact with the human skin in a similar way as a garment, so as the shoes that contains the listed substances, independently if produced in EU or imported in EU, they won’t be allowed anymore on the EU market.

The proposal aims to ban 33 substances CMR of 1A and 1B category of the following group of substances:

Compound of Cadmium, Chrome, Arsenic and Lead
Benzene and polycyclic aromatic Hydrocarbon
Chlorinated aromatic Hydrocarbon
Formaldehyde
Phthalate
Polar aprotic solvents (termine chimico, non sono riuscita a
Azo-dyes and Arylamine

The European Commision proposal is available at this ….link

For now, while we wait for the use of formaldehyde to be definitively benned, we can follow some precautions, to reduce its danger:
To avoid using products that contain formaldehyde by choosing detergents, paints, clothes, etc. of biological or, at least, natural origin.
To often ventilate the house's rooms to avoid the accumulation of formaldehyde released by the use of detergents, solvents, glues, furnitures, etc. in the rooms.
To carefully close the bottles of cleaning and maintenance products and confine them in tightly closed cabinets and away from food.
To always use natural materials in the construction or rennovation of houses and always prefer natural fabric for upholstery and interiors.

 

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Moodboard Ultra Violet

Pantone Ultra Violet color of the year, Monet protagonist of the moodboard 2018

Pantone 18-3838 was elected color of the year. Carlotta Berta talks about it in her Blog, inspired, for the moodboard, by the fabric of the l'opificio's collections.

 

Claude Monet, loved french impressionist who lived between the nineteenth and twentieth century, in the last decade of his life he found himself having to overcome the cataract, illness that prevented him from a clear vision and a correct perception of the colors, things that made painting difficult for him. After several operations to which he underwent he managed to see again but with the ability to perceive ultraviolets ray.

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l'Opificio velluto tessuto con il pelo

Discover the VELVET = hair fabric

The hair is what marks the velvet from the other fabrics.

Velvet is the fabric which, more than the others, with is soft touch, brushes our senses with intensity.

The unified velvet (also called smooth or cut) contemporary production is achieved with the double piece technique and the obtained velvets are then submitted to different finishing treatments.

For example, a lot of velvets produced on double piece looms are first dyed in piece and then finished with special ravelling, trimming and polishing machines in order to achieve a perfectly uniform hair, the typical softness to the touch and brightness.

velluto: tocco soffice per accarezzare con intensita in nostri sensi

Not all the velvets are the same, the differences depend, first of all, on the chosen yarns for the hair weaving, which are determining for the brightness and softness.

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l'Opificio tessuti e cuscini mostra fotografica Stefania Bonatelli

“When Textile Meets Animals”: Stefania Bonatelli photographer exhibition

“When Textile Meets Animals”: at l'Opificio in Turin, the exhibition of Stefania Bonatelli's shoots, which investigate the connection between nature and fabrics design.
In Stefania Bonatelli photographer's shoots, the colour shades of some of the most charming birds in the world's plumage act as a counterpoint to the Turinese company precious fabrics' nuances.

What kind of connection could exist between an armchair sit and a grey heron? Or between a velvet cushion and a snowy owl? “All art is nothing but imitation of nature” quotes Seneca, but he then adds that art is not art if the effect is reached by chance. It's through meditation and wait that human creativity interacts with nature and, by it, builds its beauty vision choosing models and colours which answer to the ideals of the age in which it lives.

This is the creativity idea behind the photo exhibition “When Textile Meets Animals”, presented in Turin the next 27th of October in Via Martiri della Libertà 42, at l'Opificio Show Room, a family-run company, leader in Italy and abroad of high quality fabrics production, 100% Made In Italy: putting in relation the plumage of some of the most iconic and charming birds in the planet with the refinement of the best of the l'Opificio production, in a continuous reference to the beauty that the careful eye is able to catch in nature and the result of the man creativity combined to a “savoir-faire” belief which has always been part of the italian small-medium successful entreprises' DNA.

At work in the elaboration and investigation of this engaging relation, through 15 selected shoots, is the Turinese photographer Stefania Bonatelli, drawing from her 15 years of life in Colombia experience, a land in which nature dominates through the sparkling of intense colours, typical of tropical countries.

From the birds' plumage to the sky from which they come from, from the trees and the sends on which they build their habitat, the textile artist's imagination derived textures, warped silks and brocades on which imprinted lines and shapes, shades and tracks, and sometimes symbols consciously or unconsciously stolen from nature. The fluffy, the soft, the hairy, the polished as well as the rough and the coarse of the fabrics evoque feathers and quills and pelts, skin and cortexes, calyxes and corollas.

The artist captured all these connections, and for this reason the light-blue of a velvet is matched with the shades of sky painted on the plumage of the paradisiacal crane; the vigilant eye and the erect position of the night heron control its head nunaces reproduced on the runners and animalier cushion taken from the jaguar fur. The snowy owl, darkness' sharp observator, is compared to the black and grey tones of its nights and to the whiteness of the “dress”, while the toucans' beaks find their correspondance in the multi-coloured polychrome velvets and in the imitative curves of the stitched cushions. And once again, the crowned crane is well merged with the furnishing objects which drag from its fur, its insolen crest and from the surrounding arboreal nature the unexpected nuances, while from the neck's curviness, the elegant arch of the seats.

Therefore, it's not by chance if “When Textile Meets Animals” will be launched just before the week in which Turin will be the uncontested protagonist of the national and international contemporary art: “In this occasion, my sister Barbara and I decided to step back and let the artist to feel free to work on the pictures and the result has been amazing!” comments Paola Bertoldo, owner of l'Opificio together with her sister Barbara and their brother Federico “The combination of shades and textures between our fabrics and velvets and the plumage immediately captured us, that's why we thought about sharing this moment of surprise and joy, arranging an exhibition. And what better occasion than the Turin 'Artissima' week”.

When Textile Meets Animals will be opened to the public from the 27th of October until the 5th of November from 10 a.m to 6 p.m
Closed on Sunday the 29
th and on Wednesday the 1st of November.
Special opening on Sunday the 5
th of November.

Free entry

Stefania Bonatelli
Born in Turin, she attended and graduated at DAMS academy of the city, where she is currently living and working. After an actor's path, since 2000 she deals with direction and art videos. Due to family issues, she spent her first 15 years in Cali, Colombia, and to these lands she ows her first imprinting. Although she is familiar with the uniform grey of the Po valley's mists, she is more intrigued by the vibrant colours and the scattered vivaciousness of the sunny equatorial deserts, of the snowy summits, of the extreme dryness, of the torrential rains. In these shoots, she seems to instill the unforgettable memory of that country, which overflows with orchids, which hosts butterflies and beetles, jaguars abd armadillos, cranes and toucans, and where even the houses are painted in pink and fuchsia, in light-blue and turquoisie.

A LODGE IN THE STELVIO PARK: HIGH-FLYING TEXTILE

LUCKY ISOLATION IN THE ALPS

The lodge is located along the bank of the Cancano dyke, an artificial pond near Bormio - North Italy, built in the first half of 20th century in order to generate electricity for the whole region of Lombardy. That valley, the Fraele Towers Valley, where there are ruins of the two World Wars, is an enchanted area, which is –unbelievably- still not provided with electricity and land line.
The complete absence of light pollution and this warmly welcome “isolation” make it magical, especially at dusk, part of the day in which it feels like being immersed in an ambience of yesteryear.

The establishment of the lodge goes back to 1970’s, owners’ second generation recently refurbished it completely, using ancient wood and refined furniture sought with passion over the years throughout the Alps.
Whereas the armchairs in the living room are original and date back to 1970’s. The objects in the lodge, result of research and careful selection, come mostly from the family-owned shop specialized in mountain home décor.
Textile complements have been entrusted to the solid experience of the Turin based company owned by family friends, well appreciated in the world of high end decoration.
The lodge is a place built and decorated with love: love for the place, for its origin and its family history; a cozy shelter, realized with passion and dedication, considered by everyone a place of the heart and soul.